Friday, August 20, 2010

Day 16: Stockholm and the Vasa Museum

The final day of this Scandinavian Odyssey. A four-hour tour of Stockholm through crowded streets and bustling traffic. Buses, cars and boats coming and going in all directions. Streets being dug up and buildings under construction - Stockholm is a busy place for residents and visitors alike


Wandering through the Stockholm streets among the many vistas and viewpoints, one encounters representations of kings, queens, military leaders and noted political figures. Among these are also found innocent evocations of cultural joys such as with the little gnome-like statue of Sweden's popular twentieth century troubador, Evert Taube. Behind him the pretentious Stockholm city hall intended to mimic the ducal palace of Venice in a city that is often been referred to as "the Venice of the North."

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One of the most visited tourist sites in all of Scandinavia is the Vasa Museum. Here the royal warship, VASA, stands in all its glory. Built from 1626-28 to be the grandest of the royal ships of the Swedish navy. Named for the royal dynasty begun by Gustav Vasa, the ship was a personal project of King Gustavus Adolphus who was engaged in fighting in Poland when he called for more ships to be built.


Ready to launch in the summer of 1628, the sails were set and the maiden voyage begun on August 10. Fifteen minutes into the voyage, the ship, overbuilt and top heavy, caught a wind and keeled over, sinking in 105 feet of water in full view of the hundreds of people who lined the waterfront to catch a glimpse of the new pride of the Swedish navy.

Some guns and other equipment was ultimately salvaged, but most of the ship and about 50 crewmen and guests perished in the accident. In 1961, 333 years after it sank in the brackish, worm-free waters of Stockholm harbor, the ship was re-discovered and brought to the surface. Today, it stands almost perfectly intact, and beautifully preserved, in the Vasa Museum.

Scientists have not only been able to preserve the ship itself but, through the process of archeological forensics and with the increased knowledge of osteology, scientists have been able to reconstruct the faces of some of the dead on the Vasa. The project, Ansikte mot Ansikte (Face to Face), has seen the facial reconstruction of several of the people (including two women) who died during the Vasa sinking.











Above: The skeletal remains of one of the sailors on the Vasa - scientists named him "Gustav" - was found lying near some personal artifacts and clothing. A reconstruction of the face (above right) has resulted in a rendering that is so life-like that the viewer expects the eyes to blink at any time.




Along with Gustav, the face of "Johan" looks out from the seventeenth century.








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