Geiranger Fjord

Cross the bridge in Hellesylt and on your right stands the formerly somewhat majestic Grand Hotel with its Sherlock Holmes Pub. Just beyond the hotel lies the ferry landing where you board for the 65 minute-sail of the Geirangerfjord to Geiranger.

From the Grand Hotel, one can look back to the bridge with the cascading waterfall and local church of Hellesylt. Hellesylt lies on the Storfjord, set half way between Stranda (on the way north towards Aalesund) and Stryn (on the way south to Sogn and Bergen).

The ticket takers on the ferry find a moment of respite dockside before cars and passengers begin to board.

On the way in to Geiranger, the ferry passes the Seven Sisters waterfall in early September when little water is actually flowing to form the seven veils.

The ferry finally reaches the small village of Geiranger. First visited by cruise ships in 1869, the Geiranger fjord and its environs were placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2005.

The Fjord Country

The fjord country of western Norway is rich in tradition and beautiful to see. Hardanger fjord is best known for its fruit production, its spectacular scenery and its folk traditions. The Hardanger bunad and the eight-stringed Hardanger violin have become synonymous with Norway itself.

At Gudvangen, at the end of the Nærøyfjord, where pagan religious rituals are believed to have taken place in the Viking Age, the memory of the place is reinforced by the modern imagined representation of a Viking warrior.

The forests, mountains, lakes and rivers of western Norway serve to delight tourists while they employ the nymphs and spirits of the Norwegian folkloristic and mythological traditions. At Kjosfossen in the Flåm valley, such creatures are seen regularly by those traveling the Flåm railroad up and down between Myrdal and Flåm. Sometimes they wear green, sometimes they wear red.

And, if you are not battling with the spirits, you might find yourself in the middle of a National Romantic landscape that reminds you of the portrait of I. C. Dahl, Stalheim, a realistic rendering of Jordalsnuten in the breathtaking Nærøy valley.

Traveling west in Norway

An overnight trip of Smithsonian Journeys travelers from Copenhagen on a DFDS ferry brought us to a rainy Oslo at 9:30 am. The slow moving mass of passengers wove its way down and around the the gangway into the mid-morning rain of Norway's capital. Find the suitcases. Get them stashed on the bus and head west. A solemn quiet envelopes the bus as we pass Utøya and remember the terrible events of July 22. Fresh flowers cover the large stone at the edge of the water. Each to their own thoughts, unshared, but understood, and the bus continues west through Hallingdal. A stop in Gol to stretch the legs, buy a paper and take a picture, before continuing on to Hardanger.

The majestic waterfall, Vøringsfossen, drops over 300 meters to the canyon below.

Then on to Ullensvang Hotel in Lofthus. In his day, Edvard Grieg listened to the music of Norway's nature here. Perhaps the echoes can still be heard.

Ullensvang Hotel in Hardanger

Scandinavian Sojourn Begins in Copenhagen

The Scandinavian Sojourn tour sponsored by Smithsonian Journeys begins with a visit to Copenhagen's fabulous Tivoli Gardens. Initially established in 1843, it served as the inspiration for Walt Disney's imaginative Disneyland parks and continues to charm thousands of visitors to Denmark's capital city.

Cruising the Baltic Sea, June 2011

University of Washington Alumni Tour, June 9 - 20, 2011.















A cruise of the Baltic Sea on Le Boreal is a pleasure for the senses. A visual and cultural smörgåsbord from the moment one steps aboard. Relatively small by cruise standards, Le Boreal's capacity is 250 passengers. French officers, and an international staff, we left Stockholm navigating the Baltic in a clockwise direction.

Helsinki/Helsingfors


Blue skies and a bustling harbor greeted us as we slowly made our way into Helsinki harbor. Numerous small boats criss-crossed the harbor as we approached the dock. Several large cruise ships were already in port when we tied up at the Olympic Terminal across the harbor from the huge Lutheran Cathedral that dominates the skyline of Helsinki. Tour buses wait to pick up the visitors for a city tour, but one could choose to walk to the inner harbor and the market square instead. A cool refreshment at Kappeli's Cafe with music blaring from a huge stage in the middle of the Esplanade park. Large crowds testify to the Finnish holiday weekend. Just another beautiful summer day in Helsinki.






An early evening departure and overnight sail to St. Petersburg is on the schedule. Sailing out of the harbor, we pass the island of Suomenliina and the fortress built by the Swedes when Sweden was a major European power. The ship turns east in the Gulf of Finland, heading for the city of Peter the Great.

St Petersburg

Founded in 1703 and built on the swampy delta of the River Neva, St. Petersburg was Tsar Peter the Great's "window to the west." After seventy years as Leningrad during the Soviet period, the city is once again St. Petersburg. Along the banks of the Neva, the Hermitage with its five palaces, including the famous "Winter Palace" of the Romanoff dynasty, today serve as museums containing the remarkable art collection that includes works by DaVinci, Rembrandt, David, Van Gogh, Rodin, Picasso, among others.




One of the city's iconic buildings is The Church on Spilled Blood, built on the spot where the reformistTsar Alexander II was assassinated in 1881.






Hall Leiren on tour in St. Petersburg
(left)







Don and Alita Rhodes enjoying lunch in St. Petersburg (right)

Changing Tides of History

The summer of 2011 presents a special opportunity for travelers to cruise the Baltic Sea and to meet and interact with two important living historical personalities. Included around port calls to, and tours of, Stockholm, Helsinki, St. Petersburg, Tallinn, Riga, Gdansk, and Copenhagen before disembarking in Bergen, are visits with former Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev and former Polish President and leader of the Solidarity Trade Union, Lech Walesa. Beginning with a flight to Stockholm, Sweden, we board the French ship Le Boreal, circumnavigate the Baltic, then return home from Bergen, Norway. http://www.washington.edu/alumni/tours/tour-info.html?tourid=187

Day 17: Stockholm: Final Day

This is the final post for this 17-day tour. The next post will be a new trip in 2011.

The Scandinavian Odyssey tour organized by UW Tours, University of Washington Alumni Association, ended Saturday, August 21, on a high note with a hosted Swedish dinner at Stortorgskällaren, a delightful little restaurant on Stockholms original main square in the old city center, Gamla Stan. Originally, a wine cellar, the restaurant's vaulted ceilings date from the 15th century.


In 1520, the square outside was the scene of one of history's most ignoble deeds, the infamous "Stockholm Bloodbath," that saw the final, desperate acts of vengence by Denmark's King Christian II in his attempt to keep Sweden from separating from the Kalmar Union and Danish control. Across the square, today, is the building that houses the prestigious Swedish Academy and the new Alfred Nobel Museum. Founded in 1786 by King Gustav III, the Swedish Academy's mission is to "advance the Swedish language and Swedish literature. Annually, the 18-member academy chooses the Nobel Prize winner for Literature.

Around the corner lie the Royal Palace and Stockholm Cathedral, Storkyrkan, from 1279. The imposing Royal Palace's apparent dwarfing of the cathedral is properly symbolic since the Protestant Reformation outlawed Catholicism and subordinated the Church to the Monarchy of Gustav Vasa in 1527.


The narrow streets of the old city charm a twenty-first century visitor, but reality in 16th century Stockholm was far from the idyllic scenes of today.






Gloria Henning and Bertie Perry in the Old City (above)






Sally Wilson, "Polly" Ellingson, Sharon Nelson, Roger Cohen, Bruce Nelson and Ellen Wineberg, in front of the Stortorgskällaren, listen to a city tour guide explain the events of 1520 on the same spot they are standing.





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Tour over, time to head home. Memories of a wonderful shared experience. To the Alumni Tour participants and to those who traveled with us virtually online:

Mange tak -- Tusen takk -- Tack så mycket
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Day 16: Stockholm and the Vasa Museum

The final day of this Scandinavian Odyssey. A four-hour tour of Stockholm through crowded streets and bustling traffic. Buses, cars and boats coming and going in all directions. Streets being dug up and buildings under construction - Stockholm is a busy place for residents and visitors alike


Wandering through the Stockholm streets among the many vistas and viewpoints, one encounters representations of kings, queens, military leaders and noted political figures. Among these are also found innocent evocations of cultural joys such as with the little gnome-like statue of Sweden's popular twentieth century troubador, Evert Taube. Behind him the pretentious Stockholm city hall intended to mimic the ducal palace of Venice in a city that is often been referred to as "the Venice of the North."

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One of the most visited tourist sites in all of Scandinavia is the Vasa Museum. Here the royal warship, VASA, stands in all its glory. Built from 1626-28 to be the grandest of the royal ships of the Swedish navy. Named for the royal dynasty begun by Gustav Vasa, the ship was a personal project of King Gustavus Adolphus who was engaged in fighting in Poland when he called for more ships to be built.


Ready to launch in the summer of 1628, the sails were set and the maiden voyage begun on August 10. Fifteen minutes into the voyage, the ship, overbuilt and top heavy, caught a wind and keeled over, sinking in 105 feet of water in full view of the hundreds of people who lined the waterfront to catch a glimpse of the new pride of the Swedish navy.

Some guns and other equipment was ultimately salvaged, but most of the ship and about 50 crewmen and guests perished in the accident. In 1961, 333 years after it sank in the brackish, worm-free waters of Stockholm harbor, the ship was re-discovered and brought to the surface. Today, it stands almost perfectly intact, and beautifully preserved, in the Vasa Museum.

Scientists have not only been able to preserve the ship itself but, through the process of archeological forensics and with the increased knowledge of osteology, scientists have been able to reconstruct the faces of some of the dead on the Vasa. The project, Ansikte mot Ansikte (Face to Face), has seen the facial reconstruction of several of the people (including two women) who died during the Vasa sinking.











Above: The skeletal remains of one of the sailors on the Vasa - scientists named him "Gustav" - was found lying near some personal artifacts and clothing. A reconstruction of the face (above right) has resulted in a rendering that is so life-like that the viewer expects the eyes to blink at any time.




Along with Gustav, the face of "Johan" looks out from the seventeenth century.








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Day 15: Carl Larsson and Uppsala

Although born in Stockholm, Swedish painter Carl Larsson has become identified with Dalarna and the Swedish countryside, perhaps, more than any other painter. He and his wife, Karin, had eight children who served as models for many of Larsson's paintings. Likewise the Larsson home in the small village of Sundborn was replicated repeatedly in his paintings and have become a part of Larsson iconography. Walking into the garden around the home and, indeed, into the home itself is almost as though one has stepped right into a Carl Larsson painting.

It was, therefore, an extra special treat for the group to tour the home of Karin and Carl Larsson early this morning prior to it opening for the public. Although no pictures were allowed to be taken in the home, the house and garden are as much a part of Larsson's art as the children who modeled for him.

Larsson's home (left) with four of the children painted into the entryway (right).

Roger Cohen, "Polly" Ellingson, William Burlingame and Celine Osborn enjoy the ambience of the Larsson garden prior to the tour of the home.

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From Sundborn, we drove south east towards Falun and Uppsala. The copper mines at Falun provided a large majority of Europe's copper since the 14th century and is today on the UNESCO list of world heritage sites. A thriving winter ski area, Falun will host the 2015 Nordic Ski Championships and further show off its mining history and traditions. Before leaving Dalarna, we felt compelled to bid farewell to the largest Dala horse in the world, standing proudly in Avesta, Sweden.

(Front row (l-r): Kay Reissig and Kristin Nelson. Back row (l-r): Walt Reissing, Sharon Nelson, Karl Nelson and Conner Nelson)
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The Uppsala Cathedral, completed in 1435 and restored and completed in the 19th and 20th centuries, dominates the skyline of Uppsala attesting to the city's status as an archbishopric residence in the Middle Ages and the center of university learning for Sweden for six centuries. An hour north of Stockholm, the city served as our gateway to the capital where we arrived in the late afternoon.

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Day 14: From Norway to Sweden

An early departure from Oslo with the promise of rain for most of the day. We have been pretty lucky so far, however, getting rain when we travel and sun when we stop. That's a pattern that is hard to beat. From Oslo, the drive took us north to Hamar, then east through Elverum, Midtskogen, and Trysil, then crossing into Sweden to the Dalarna region, passing through Sälen, Mora, and Rättvik before stopping at the Hotel Dalecarlia in Tällberg on the shores of Lake Siljan.

At Elverum, we were reminded of the fateful days of 9-10 April, 1940, when invading German forces tried to capture, then kill the Norwegian royal family, the government and the members of Parliament (Storting). At Elverum, the Storting members voted to authorize a government in exile should that become necessary, and at Midtskogen, a fierce battle delayed German progress sufficiently to allow the escape of the Norwegian royal family, government and Storting members.



Memorial stone at Midtskogen, commemorating the battle on April 9, 1940, delaying German forces as they moved to occupy the country and attempted to capture the Norwegian Royal Family.





Crossing the border into Sweden was barely noticeable. The street signs changed color and the houses seemed all to be painted red, but otherwise not much to mark that we had left Norway. Passing Sälen, we noticed the long open area where the famous Vasalöppet ski race begins every winter. The race traces a ski route of Gustav Vasa in reverse when he led the Swedes in their war of independence against Denmark and the Kalmar Union in the early 16th century. The race ends at Mora after 85 km and some four hours after it begins. In Mora, we exchanged some money and noted the huge local church proudly proclaiming that the tower had been added by King Carl XI in 1673. Seems like only yesterday.






Waiting out the rain are (left to right) Richard and Sally Wilson, Charles Osborn and Walt Reissig






From Mora, we headed for one of those places that seem both comical and charming. Nusnäs is a little village with a small factory producing one of Sweden's iconic images, the Dala horse. With the timing of a stand-up comedian, the pleasant horse-carver told of the work in the little factory. Sixty carvers in the region supply thousands of little wooden horses that are painted red, blue, black, gray or neutral, then decorated and shipped all over the world. A three meter high horse currently exhibited at the Shanghai World Exposition threatens the little factory with the possibility of unlimited orders from China. Think of the potential, our carver noted wryly.











The Dalarna horses in the Nils Olsson Hemslöjd in Nusnäs await final touches and shipping to eager customers.



Arrival and check-in at the Hotel Dalecarlia brings an end to a fascinating day.



Looking out over Lake Siljan from the Hotel Dalecarlia





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Day 13: Oslo - a tourist's view

Staying in the middle of Oslo at the Grand Hotel, the group is witness to a busy street life outside the front doors. Directly across Karl Johan street is the Storting, Norway's national parliament. The main train station is a 15-minute walk away, while the Royal Palace (Slottet) is about 5 minutes from the hotel entrance. Restaurants, museums, and several major galleries, are within a 5-10 minute walk. Oslo is a small big city.

Fountains and reflecting pool in Studenterlunden, across the street directly in front of the hotel

A park with reflecting pool, fountains, statues and a lively mix of people speaking a babel of languages runs alongside Karl Johan Street from the Parliament buildings to the National Theater.











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William Burlingame in front of Vigeland's iconic monolith, "Struggle for Survival."



A visit to Frogner Park to view the bronze and granite statues of Gustav Vigeland was followed by a drive out to Bygdøy to see the Viking Ship Museum and the three 9th century Viking ships (Tune, Oseberg and Gokstad). The Oseberg, with its ornately carved prow and stern, was most likely a ceremonial ship with its somewhat shoddy construction but richly furnished as a burial ship for two women. The Gokstad ship, on the other hand, is a sleek, symmetrically built war ship buried with a single male, probably a chieftan.



The Oseberg ship (left) had two women buried on it along with farm animals, tools, household items and food. All that might be necessary in the next life.






The sleek Gokstad ship was most likely a war ship with its sleek lines and streamlined construction. It served as the burial tomb of a 60-year old male chieftan around the middle of the 9th century.

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From the Viking ship museum, the group visited the Norwegian Folk Museum with its late 12th century stave church "kidnapped" from Gol, Norway, by King Oscar II in the late 19th century, then placed in the middle of Oslo as an homage to the country's national romantic culture and rural past. Built around 1200, the Gol Stave Church is one of approximately 25 left in Norway that date back to the early Christian period of the 12th and 13th centuries. Next to the stave charch was an eighteenth century farm house, furnished with the finest goods available in Norway around 1738.




In front of the Gol Stave Church











Eighteenth century painting (ca. 1718) of a Norwegian farmer in the field with his rake, axe, scythe and shovel. Painting hangs in the early 18th century house in the Oslo Folk Museum.




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